Dead Aristocrats, the ultimate aphrodisiac- Toso from the Argentine Cup
Like Don Giovanni, the count is an unrepentant hedonist, a throwback to our pre-bourgeois past. Sad to say I have no moral moorings or desire for a serious life. Everything that has followed the Enlightenment, gives me nothing but a gas bubble and a killin’ ennui. I blathered on like this to the tattooed “Suicide Grrls” on the smoking porch to their evident non-interest. Then I started in on my occasional desire for lurid “vacations” that I might initiate with eligible, exotic American females- such as themselves. This indecent proposal was met with the requisite faux caustic response that one expects from a Northwest hipoisie- but thankfully, their social calendars were as empty as poor Marie Antoinette’s bed. They called le bluff of le count. And our hero came through with yet another brilliantly crafted, if morally bereft, suggestion for mutual amusement.
I had planned to take the Xmas holidays on the coast in Costa Rica anyway, but then decided; “why not leave a few weeks early and take advantage of the South American summer, and finish up in Costa Rica”. I made a call on my cell and woke up Jorge who runs a ranch in the pampas, about two hours outside of Buenos Aires. I knew he could get me 3 tickets to the Argentine Open. By looking at these two grrls I judged that their experience of Polo would have to have been limited to some favorite uncles collar. Jorge’s older brother owns a mill and he happened to be in the US on a business trip, so he swung up to Oregon on his Gulfstream two days later and ferried the three of us back to the sunny side of the earth and to the mecca of Polo.
We landed in Buenos Aires and so I took my little genetically gifted dolls into the city before we were to go to Jorge’s ranch near Palermo. Ever at the service at the of the gods of pee- pee humor, I took them straight to the obelisk down Avenida 9 de Julio. We sat down at the first confitéria we could find, ordered cognac and maté; and commenced to make much mirth in the penumbra of the magnificent phallus of the porteños.
I can’t really describe the introverted strangeness that hangs over the porteños and their city; a city that produced Borges, the Tango, and the worlds greatest number of neurotics riding couches in psychoanalysis. This next vignette may give you a feel for Buenos Aires’ unique emotional undertow.
So we’re sitting there at an outdoor table on the sidewalk in the late afternoon sun and four lanes of taxicabs and traffic are barreling by us on the worlds widest avenue. There are ten story buildings everywhere, and this is the “Paris of South America”, urbane, distinguished, sophisticated... right? Just then a frightened pony gallops by, in the midst of this 45 mile an hour traffic, toward El Centro and certain death at one of the stoplight interchanges. Watching this poor animal flash by, accidentally loosed from some vegetable cart, caused all the outdoor tables to grow sullen and quiet. It felt as if each porteño became sucked down a whirlpool, into his own saturnine inner orbit, each taking blame for the ever present savagery that flays the innocent- this “civilization”. So there you are. Buenos Aires: brooding, passionate, and softly tragic. Porteños: you gotta luv ‘em.
The girls wanted to do the tourist thing, so we got a cab down to La Boca so that they could see the crazy quilt of colors the cast iron houses make in the barrio where Tango originated. Too touristy for me... guys in chinos sticking their faces through plywood paintings of fat ladies for a 5 dollar tout photo. I lobbied to get us out of there as quickly as possible. I took the girls to the Jockey club for more drinks, but didn’t realize that women are still only allowed in the dining room, so we turned rigidly on our heels with a flourish.
The sexiest place in Buenos Aires is the Cementario de La Recoleta, where all the heavy hitters are buried in lovely crypts as big as marble houses. I shot some pulse quickening video of these Bettie Page brunettes in front of Evita Peron’s flower strewn, black marble mausoleum. Life was good and death the beautiful.
I swear, for me, dead Aristocrats are the ultimate aphrodisiac. We ended up renting a large apartment from a private party that was the perfect set for a “Last Tango in Buenos” meets Richard Kern video that we shot that evening. The apartment had lime green paint peeling off the walls, dark wood floors and a wrought iron balcony that French doors opened out onto over the street. Our carrying on would have made any decent (read annoying) people within earshot commit hari kari, but instead we made as much noise as we wanted; the rest of the building was condemned.
Polo is in my blood. In the 70’s my father was captain of a national champion polo team under Stephen Roberts, at polo powerhouse Cornell, so I have romped my way through a few chukkas in my day. My own chukkas were not exactly in riding shape after Buenos Aires to take a mount in a friendly morning match at Jorge’s ranch. The grrls parked themselves pool side and Jorge and I took a walk through the stables in the break time between chukkas, and we reminisced about old times at the academy where we were on the Lacrosse team.... ball and stick sports being mucho popularo in upstate NY. I helped him double the width of the goal to sixteen yards after the match was tied after 6. A deciding goal was needed so that everybody could finally eat some of Jorges’, “worlds best steaks”. Some of the guys on Chapa I, who were to compete the next day at the Open, including world polo tour #1 ranked Mario Aguerre, were out on the pitch. You see, the Argentine Open is the Superbowl of polo, so to check these these guys out in action the day before the final was the treat of a lifetime. (Sadly, the next day the heavily favored Chapa I suffered a damaging injury to Horacio Heguy and were defeated 15-11 by Nachi and Pepe Heguy and their Chapa II squad at the first Heguy Super Clasico final in Palermo since 1996).
In the final evenings we were there, I made sure to carve out some time before dinner to play with Jorge’s marvelous Australian Shepherds; throwing spit covered balls for chasing, far out onto the pitch, with Jorge’s lacrosse stick. I watched them with full contentment their silhouettes tearing, asses tucked forward, through the reddened grass at the close of Argentine day.
I flew my new favorite friends home 1st class Dec 17th on United as I peeled off for a little Pura Vida at the famous Guanacasteco at Playa Avellanas, Guanacaste state, NW Costa Rica; The Guanacasteco is home to a silky hollow right, perfect for a regular pied like moi. [More heavy breathing blogosophy later]. Ciao.

